Mt. Shuksan
Fisher Chimneys
The Fisher Chimneys is the classic advanced-level alpine climb in the North Cascades, rivaled only by Mt. Baker’s North Ridge. It is truly a quintessential Pacific Northwest adventure.
Climbing the Fisher Chimneys is no walk in the park and requires a well-tuned toolbox of alpine climbing techniques. This program is a perfect next step for climbers who enjoyed Mt. Hood’s Cooper Spur or have prior alpine climbing experience with Trillium Alpine Guides. Depending on the time of year, the route could involve a fun mix of snow, steep glacier ice, and rock scrambling. The truly memorable summit rewards climbers with stunning views of Kulshan and the surrounding peaks of the North Cascades.
Duration: 3 days
Max climber-to-guide ratio: 2:1
Prerequisites: Experience in alpine rock climbing on 4th and 5th-class terrain with a backpack and mountaineering boots, glacier travel experience, strong fitness required.
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Day One
We will meet at We will meet at the Forest Service Ranger Station in Glacier, Washington, at 9:00 AM for introductions, a gear check, and a trip briefing. From there, we drive to the Lake Ann trailhead to begin the approach.
From the trailhead, we hike the Lake Ann Trail through scenic subalpine terrain to the base of the Fisher Chimneys, then climb through fourth- and low fifth-class terrain to Winnie’s Slide camp at roughly 7,050 feet. In total, the day covers about six miles and roughly 3,500 feet of elevation gain, and takes around seven hours.
Once at camp, we prep our gear for the summit climb ahead. After an early dinner, we will turn in for the night, since tomorrow calls for a proper alpine start.
Day Two
We leave camp somewhere between 4:00 and 5:00 AM to give ourselves the whole day for the climb and descent.
From camp, we cross the Upper Curtis Glacier, navigating crevasses and steep snow, then ascend the steep snow ramp known as Hell's Highway. From there, we continue across the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the Summit Pyramid, then climb fourth and low fifth class rock to reach the summit. In total, the round trip covers about two and a half miles and roughly 2,200 feet of elevation gain, with most parties spending six to eight hours on the move.
From the summit, we take in panoramic views of the North Cascades from one of the range's most iconic peaks, along with photos and a chance to hydrate before starting our descent. We downclimb and rappel as needed off the Summit Pyramid, then reverse our route back across the Sulphide Glacier, Hell's Highway, and the Upper Curtis Glacier to camp, where a well-earned dinner and rest await.
Day Three
After an early breakfast, we pack up camp and downclimb through the Fisher Chimneys before hiking back to the Lake Ann trailhead, taking in views of Mount Baker and the North Cascades along the way. The day takes roughly six hours. Once we are back at the cars, we will take time for a debrief, share photos, and talk through feedback and recommendations for your next steps as a climber. From there, it is time to head home.
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1:1 $2400
2:1 $1800/person
PRICE INCLUDES
Guide’s wage
Permit fees
Breakfasts, dinners, and hot drinks in the field
WAG bags
Group equipment such as ropes, tents, stoves, etc.
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
Personal equipment (see Gear List)
Transportation to and from trailhead
Field snacks
Lodging before and after trip
All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evac fees, extra hotel nights, etc.)
Trip insurance
-
Gear
Trillium Alpine Guides will provide all group gear, including ropes, tents, stoves, and water purification. Please reach out if you have any questions.
-
Glacier is about two and a half hours north of Seattle. If you are traveling from out of the region, flying into Seattle is the easiest way to reach the area. Sea-Tac is a major airport and Seattle is a major destination in its own right, so you will typically find a wide range of flight options and airlines to choose from.
You can stay in Seattle or head north to Bellingham, which is a fantastic city with lots of dining and lodging options. Either way, you will need to arrange a rental car to get to the trailhead.
During the summer months, most vehicle types will get you to the trailhead without any trouble, though most of the forest roads have large potholes, and a higher clearance car will be more comfortable.
There are tons of places to stay in Seattle and Bellingham, but below are a few lodging options that we have used before.
VRBO / Airbnb
Hotel Leo - Bellingham
Sulphide Glacier
The Sulphide Glacier route offers a spectacular intermediate-level alpine adventure. The climb begins in a lush valley and ascends a ridge to reach the Sulphide Glacier, one of the largest glaciers on Mt. Shuksan. From the glacier, the route gradually leads up to the summit pyramid, where the real excitement begins.
To reach the summit, we will climb steep snow and moderate rock to gain a small perch at the top. The views from the summit are stunning: Mt. Baker to the west, a white-capped sea of Canadian peaks to the north, and on clear days, Mt. Rainier to the south.
This program is perfect for climbers who have enjoyed climbing a route on the South Side of Mt. Hood and are eager to expand their repertoire of alpine climbing skills to include glacier navigation and alpine rock climbing.
The Sulphide Glacier is also a perfect intermediate-level early-season ski mountaineering objective. It offers long, wide-open skiing on an impressive glacier.
Duration: 3 days
Max climber-to-guide ratio: 2:1
Prerequisites: Experience in alpine rock climbing on 4th and 5th-class terrain with a backpack and mountaineering boots, glacier travel experience, strong fitness required.
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Day One
We will meet at Riverfront Park in Sedro Woolley, Washington, at 9:00 AM for introductions, a gear check, and a trip briefing. From there, we drive to the Shannon Ridge trailhead to begin the approach.
From the trailhead, we hike the Shannon Ridge Trail through scenic subalpine terrain to the base of the Sulphide Glacier, where we set up tents and make camp. In total, the day covers about four and a half miles and roughly 3,775 feet of elevation gain, and takes around four to six hours.
Once at camp, we prep our gear for the summit climb ahead. After an early dinner, we will turn in for the night, since tomorrow calls for a proper alpine start.
Day Two
We leave camp somewhere between 4:00 and 5:00 AM to give ourselves the whole day for the climb and descent.
From camp, we cross the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the Summit Pyramid, then climb fourth and low fifth class rock to reach the summit. In total, the round trip covers about five miles and roughly 2,850 feet of elevation gain, with most parties spending around eight hours on the move.
From the summit, we take in panoramic views of the North Cascades from one of the range's most iconic peaks, along with photos and a chance to hydrate before starting our descent. We downclimb and rappel as needed off the Summit Pyramid, then reverse our route back across the Sulphide Glacier to camp, where a well-earned dinner and rest await.
Day Three
After an early breakfast, we pack up camp and hike back to the Shannon Ridge trailhead, taking in views of the North Cascades along the way. The day takes roughly four hours. Once we are back at the cars, we will take time for a debrief, share photos, and talk through feedback and recommendations for your next steps as a climber. From there, it is time to head home.
-
1:1 $2400
2:1 $1800/person
PRICE INCLUDES
Guide’s wage
Permit fees
Breakfasts, dinners, and hot drinks in the field
WAG bags
Group equipment such as ropes, tents, stoves, etc.
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
Personal equipment (see Gear List)
Transportation to and from trailhead
Field snacks
Lodging before and after trip
All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evac fees, extra hotel nights, etc.)
Trip insurance
-
Gear
Trillium Alpine Guides will provide all group gear, including ropes, tents, stoves, and water purification. Please reach out if you have any questions.
-
Glacier is about two and a half hours north of Seattle. If you are traveling from out of the region, flying into Seattle is the easiest way to reach the area. Sea-Tac is a major airport and Seattle is a major destination in its own right, so you will typically find a wide range of flight options and airlines to choose from.
You can stay in Seattle or head north to Bellingham, which is a fantastic city with lots of dining and lodging options. Either way, you will need to arrange a rental car to get to the trailhead.
During the summer months, most vehicle types will get you to the trailhead without any trouble, though most of the forest roads have large potholes, and a higher clearance car will be more comfortable.
There are tons of places to stay in Seattle and Bellingham, but below are a few lodging options that we have used before.
VRBO / Airbnb
Hotel Leo - Bellingham
