Mt. Hood
Wy’East
Mt. Hood offers many classic alpine routes. Whether you're taking your first steps in mountaineering or looking for a more advanced objective, we have the perfect climb for you.
South Side Routes: Pearly Gates & Old Chute
These are the standard routes to Oregon’s highest point and are great objectives for both novice and experienced climbers alike. Each variation features sections of steep snow, with the possibility of alpine ice climbing near the summit. The Pearly Gates and Old Chute routes are excellent next steps for graduates of our 5-day Mountaineering Course or climbers looking to build experience before attempting more technical ascents like Mt. Hood’s Cooper Spur, Mt. Shuksan’s Fisher Chimneys, or Mt. Baker’s North Ridge.
The first day is spent doing a gear check and a half-day alpine climbing course to ensure you're ready for the climb. However, experienced climbers who have previously participated in a Trillium Alpine Guides program and are confident in their gear selection may opt for a one-day ascent.
Additionally, the South Side routes are a prime venue for spring Ski Mountaineering, offering fantastic opportunities for those looking to ski from the summit.
Cooper Spur
For climbers seeking a more challenging and remote alpine experience, the Cooper Spur route offers a striking ascent of Mt. Hood’s east ridge. This is a 2-day intermediate-level climb that requires strong movement skills on steep snow and ice.
On day one, we’ll approach the mountain and establish high camp at Tie-in-Rock, setting the stage for an early morning summit push. On day two, we’ll climb nearly 2,000 feet of steep snow, with breathtaking views of Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, and the Columbia River Gorge. After reaching the summit, we’ll descend the South Side and return to Timberline Lodge.
The Cooper Spur is ideal for climbers who have prior experience on Mt. Hood, and are ready to take their alpine skills to the next level!
Other Mt. Hood Routes
Reid Glacier Headwall and Leuthold Couloir – advanced-level steep snow and ice climbs on the mountain’s west side.
Cathedral Ridge – A committing and not-often-traveled 2-day advanced-level ridge climb that involves a carry over of the mountain.
Sunshine Route – A remote and beautiful 2-day intermediate-level route that involves a carry over of the mountain.
No matter which route you choose, climbing Mt. Hood is an unforgettable experience, and we’re here to guide you every step of the way.
