Forbidden Peak
West Ridge
The West Ridge is by far the most popular route on Forbidden Peak, and it earns that popularity honestly. The upper ridge alone would be considered a classic on its own merits. It is one of the most beautiful rock ridges anywhere. Wild exposure, solid granite, and moderate climbing that combine into a truly memorable alpine climb. Add in the stunning scenery and high alpine camp, and it becomes clear why the West Ridge is considered one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.
This route involves fifth class rock climbing up to 5.6, along with glacier travel and a steep snow. Expect a full day of climbing once you leave high camp, with several hours to the summit and a technical descent that involves a mix of downclimbing and rappelling.
Duration: 3 days
Max climber-to-guide ratio: 2:1
Prerequisites: Experience in alpine rock climbing on 4th and 5th-class terrain with a backpack and mountaineering boots, glacier travel experience, strong fitness required.
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Day One
We will meet at the Marblemount Ranger Station, then caravan up Cascade River Road to the Boston Basin trailhead.
From the trailhead, at roughly 3,300 feet, we hike about three and a half miles and gain close to 3,000 feet of elevation to reach high camp in Boston Basin at around 6,400 feet. We will take our time on the It is a steep and steady climb, and we will take our time.
Once at camp, we will set up tents, make dinner, fill water bottles, and prepare our backpacks for an early morning start.
Day Two
Our start time will depend on where we camp the night before, but expect an early alpine start.
From high camp at around 6,400 feet, we climb roughly 2,400 feet to the 8,815 foot summit. The West Ridge itself consists of several pitches of rock climbing leading up to 5.6. The climbing is sustained but never too demanding, which makes it a great fit for climbers with some rock experience and a solid level of fitness. The descent is just as technical as the ascent and involves a mix of downclimbing and rappelling. Your guide may lower you through certain sections as needed. Once back at camp, we’ll celebrate and rest up for the hike out the following day.
Day Three
We’ll wake up and enjoy a leisurely breakfast, while we pack up camp. From there, we’ll hike back down to the trailhead. We like to go out for a celebratory lunch upon returning to town, if the team is up for it!
This day can also serve as a backup summit day, since it is possible to summit and hike out in a single push if needed. Weather in the Pacific Northwest can be unpredictable, and having the option to summit on day 3 is one of the main reasons this itinerary sees such strong summit success.
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1:1 $2400
2:1 $1800/person
PRICE INCLUDES
Guide’s wage
Permit fees
Breakfasts, dinners, and hot drinks in the field
WAG bags
Group equipment such as ropes, tents, stoves, etc.
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
Personal equipment (see Gear List)
Transportation to and from trailhead
Field snacks
Lodging before and after trip
All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evac fees, extra hotel nights, etc.)
Trip insurance
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Trillium Alpine Guides will provide all group gear, including ropes, tents, stoves, and water purification. Please reach out if you have any questions.
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Getting to North Cascades National Park
The Marblemount Ranger Station is about two hours northeast of Seattle. If you are traveling from out of the region, flying into Seattle is the easiest way to reach the area. Sea-Tac is a major airport and Seattle is a major destination in its own right, so you will typically find a wide range of flight options and airlines to choose from.
You can stay in Seattle or head north to Bellingham or Burlington, which are closer to North Cascades National Park. Both are great places to stay before and after your trip. Either way, you will need to arrange a rental car to get to the trailhead.
During the summer months, most vehicle types will get you to the trailhead without any trouble, though most of the forest roads have large potholes, and a higher clearance car will be more comfortable.
There are tons of options for places to stay in Bellingham and Burlington, but below are a few lodging options that we have used before.
VRBO / Airbnb
Hotel Leo - Bellingham
Hampton Inn & Suites - Burlington
North Ridge
The North Ridge is a far more remote adventure on this spectacular mountain. This is a classic advanced alpine route that combines complex glacier navigation, steep snow climbing, the most spectacular bivy you will ever experience, and a long, beautiful ridge climb that leads directly to the summit. Do not let the moderate 5.7 grade fool you. This is a demanding, well-rounded alpine climb that requires a full and well-sharpened toolbox of alpine skills across snow, ice, and rock. Climbing this line in good style is a feather in the cap of any North West alpinist.
Duration: 3 days
Max climber-to-guide ratio: 2:1
Prerequisites: Prior experience alpine climbing with Trillium Alpine Guides. The Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Shuksan or any objective that involves glacier travel and rock climbing in mountaineering boots with a backpack is . Excellent fitness is necessary.
-
Day One
We will meet at the Marblemount Ranger Station, then caravan up Cascade River Road to the Boston Basin trailhead.
From the trailhead, at roughly 3,300 feet, we hike about three and a half miles and gain close to 3,000 feet of elevation to reach high camp in Boston Basin at around 6,400 feet. It is a steep and steady climb, and we will take our time.
Once at camp, we will set up tents, make dinner, fill water bottles, and prepare our packs for an early start the next morning.
Day Two
Our start time will depend on conditions and how the team is feeling, but expect an early alpine start.
From camp at Boston Basin, we head up toward Sharkfin Col to access the Boston Glacier. Once we are established on the glacier, we navigate our way onto the North Ridge itself. Given the length and seriousness of the route, we will bivy on the ridge, finding a suitable ledge to spend the night before pushing for the summit the following morning.
Day Three
We pack up our bivy gear and climb the remaining ridge to the 8,815 foot summit. From the top, we begin our descent down the West Ridge, which is just as involved as the climb up and includes a mix of downclimbing and rappelling. Your guide may lower you through certain sections as needed.
Once we make our way back down to Boston Basin, we pack up camp and hike out to the trailhead. We like to go out for a celebratory lunch back in town, if the team is up for it.
-
1:1 $2400
2:1 $1800/person
PRICE INCLUDES
Guide’s living wage
Permit fees
Group equipment such as ropes, tents, stoves, etc.
PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE
Personal equipment (see Gear List)
Transportation to and from trailhead
Meals
Lodging before and after trip
All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evac fees, extra hotel nights, etc.)
Trip insurance
-
Trillium Alpine Guides will provide all group gear, including ropes, tents, stoves, and water purification. Please reach out if you have any questions.
-
Getting to North Cascades National Park
The Marblemount Ranger Station is about two hours northeast of Seattle. If you are traveling from out of the region, flying into Seattle is the easiest way to reach the area. Sea-Tac is a major airport and Seattle is a major destination in its own right, so you will typically find a wide range of flight options and airlines to choose from.
You can stay in Seattle or head north to Bellingham or Burlington, which are closer to North Cascades National Park. Both are great places to stay before and after your trip. Either way, you will need to arrange a rental car to get to the trailhead.
During the summer months, most vehicle types will get you to the trailhead without any trouble, though most of the forest roads have large potholes, and a higher clearance car will be more comfortable.
There are tons of options for places to stay in Bellingham and Burlington, but below are a few lodging options that we have used before.
VRBO / Airbnb
Hotel Leo - Bellingham
Hampton Inn & Suites - Burlington